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- Wood Privacy Fence System
- Wood Picket Fence System
- Wood Post and Rail Fence System
- Wood Custom And Lattice Fence System
- How to protect your fence
- The war! of the woods ♪♪what is it good for??♪♪
- Wood gate hardware
|FAQ’s Cedar Fence Materials||FAQ’s P.T.P Fences Material|
|Cedar Fence||Pressure-treated Pine Fence|
Noise reduction – If you opt for a larger fence, like a privacy fence, the fence can act as a dampener for noise pollution, bringing quiet to your yard.
Curb appeal – The right fence can accentuate a home. It is the first thing that someone sees and interacts with when they come to your home.
Privacy – Fences can make your space or home feel more private, even in populated residential areas.
Security – A sufficiently tall fence with a locking gate can add another level of security to your home.
- What’s the difference between nominal and actual thickness
- Where does Western Red Cedar come from?
- How does full width differ from scant width?
- Why do knots fall out of boards, creating holes?
- What causes Cedar boards to develop black stains at the nails?
- Can the stained Cedar be cleaned off?
- What about using bleach and water?
- Why do boards split when fastened with nails?
- The boards at the top of my fence are warping. Why?
- What can be done to eliminate the effects of weathering and keep that “new fence” look?
What’s the difference between nominal and actual thicknessNominal is a size designation most lumber uses for convenience. In lumber, the nominal size is usually greater than the actual size.
1″ = nominal
Producers have determined that the
3/4″ = actual
thinner sizes still have acceptable
21/32″ = actual
performance. Also, due to rising cost,
5/8″ = actual
raw-material producers receive a better
return with thinner products.
How does full width differ from scant width?All lumber is produced with a stated width, which is the target size. As milling has become more accurate, target sizes have moved closer to surfaced or planed sizes, i.e. 5 1/2″. As the width diminishes, the actual width is scant-or less than-the nominal width. See examples below:
What causes Cedar boards to develop black stains at the nails?The stain is caused by natural wood extracts interacting with metal in the fastener. Moist wood increases the likelihood of this interaction. For Cedar, Redwood and Cypress, you should use double-dipped galvanized, stainless steel or aluminum fasteners.
Can the stained Cedar be cleaned off?Yes. If the stain is has a brown tint to it, use a solution with Trisodium Phosphate (TSP), which is available at local retail hardware stores.
If the stain is black, use a solution with Oxalic Acid to clean the boards. This material is also available at retail hardware stores.
Commercial cleaners are available as well. Identify the cause of the stain to ensure you choose the correct product. Certain concrete cleaners are specifically formulated to clean wood extracts from patios, sidewalks, or other concrete structures.
What about using bleach and water?Chlorine-based or Oxygen-type bleach is effective against mildew and fungi. Oxygen-type bleach contains sodium percarbonate, which when added to water forms hydrogen peroxide, an effective agent in removing mildew stains, dirt and weathered gray residue from wood that has ultraviolet (sunlight) degradation. Unlike chlorine-based bleach, once the wood is treated with the oxygen-type bleach, it will return to its original natural appearance.
Some species of wood contain tannins, a natural resin. Water can extract these resins from wood leaving brown or black discolorations on the surface. Blue-black stains can result from a reaction of tannins to the iron in nails or fasteners. Neither chlorine nor oxygen bleaches are effective against tannin or iron stains, but the use of an oxalic acid-based product mentioned previously will render the stains colorless.
What can be done to eliminate the effects of weathering and keep that “new fence” look?While there’s no way to eliminate the weathering of wood, it’s relatively easy to minimize the effects:
- Use three back rails (6′ fence), two backrails (4′, 5′ fence), or 4 backrails (8′ fence) for more hold-down points.
- Use only hot-dipped galvanized, or stainless steel fasteners with a ring or spiral shank to minimize warp and rust stains.
- Treat the surfaces of fence boards with a water-repellant solution to reduce the rate that moisture is absorbed and released. This solution should also have a good UV inhibitor if you don’t want the fence to gray.
- Follow a regular maintenance program of cleaning and refinishing every few years with a “clear” or “toner” water repellant containing UV inhibitors. This will revitalize a dingy appearance caused by dirt, mildew, or graying. It’s like washing and waxing your car. Opinions differ on how necessary it is to perform regular maintenance, but most agree your fence will look much better for the effort.
One thing to note about using cedar materials with the installation of fences Treated Wood Fence Materials
This is where cedar comes into the picture. Tight-grained, good-looking, and weather-resistant, cedar is the best choice anywhere aesthetics are important. Cedar makes beautiful decking, railings, arbors, and trellises. It can be sanded to a smooth finish that makes it ideal for handrails, bench seats, and children’s play structures. Due to its chemical properties, cedar is naturally weather-resistant and repels most bugs. But over the years it can crack slightly and develop a fuzzy surface texture unless it’s periodically refinished. Cedar accepts sealers and stains beautifully and should be refinished every two to three years. If you plan to keep your cedar’s natural color, note that cedar can darken dramatically when exposed to sunlight. You’ll want to be vigilant about applying clear sealers with UV (ultraviolet light) blockers to keep the rich color of the natural wood. “Don’t put cedar where it’s in direct contact with the ground or set it in concrete. It may last for a while, but eventually, it will rot and deteriorate”